Yemen: The Ancient Trade. Episode 8. Coffee Cultures: A Global Journey

Introduction:
Yemen, an ancient land of rugged mountains and arid deserts, is also the storied birthplace of the global coffee trade. As we traverse through the historic city of Sana'a, with its distinctive, tower-like houses, and venture into the craggy peaks of the Haraz Mountains, we find terraced fields blooming with coffee trees. These landscapes hold tales of centuries past, tales that reveal the genesis of our global infatuation with coffee.

In Yemen, coffee is more than just a commodity or a morning ritual – it's a cornerstone of society, a testament to resilience, and a symbol of hospitality. Here, coffee connects people, punctuates social occasions, and, despite the country's recent turmoil, offers a taste of tradition and a hint of hope.

In this episode, we journey through Yemen's captivating landscapes, visit its ancient coffee terraces, and take a deep dive into the country's rich coffee history. We'll explore how Yemen gave the world its first taste of coffee, the unique characteristics of the Yemeni Mocha bean, and the traditional methods of preparing and consuming coffee that continue to permeate Yemeni society.

So, fasten your seatbelts, and prepare for a rich, aromatic journey into the heart of Yemen's coffee trade – a tale that intertwines history, culture, and tradition into one captivating brew. Welcome to Episode 8, "Yemen: The Ancient Trade."

History of Yemen's Coffee Trade:
The history of Yemen's coffee trade is as rich and complex as the coffee it produces. It's a story steeped in myth and intrigue, of global demand and economic prosperity, but also one of control and monopoly.

The origins of coffee cultivation are somewhat shrouded in mystery, but many legends point to Ethiopia as the original home of the coffee plant. The Yemenis were likely the first to cultivate coffee systematically, having been introduced to the plant by Ethiopian traders around the 6th century. But it was in Yemen where the coffee cherries were first hulled and roasted to create the beverage we know today.

Yemen's location on the Arabian Peninsula played a crucial role in the history of coffee trade. Its ancient port city of Mocha (Al-Makha) served as a vital hub for trade between the East and West during the 15th and 16th centuries. This city gave the world the term "mocha" to describe coffee, particularly coffee with a chocolate-like flavor.

Yemen held a virtual monopoly on coffee production and trade for a long time, with its beans highly prized throughout the Ottoman Empire and Europe. The Yemeni merchants even went to great lengths to maintain this monopoly, selling only roasted or boiled beans that could not be replanted. However, this monopoly was broken when the Dutch managed to smuggle live coffee plants in the 17th century, leading to the establishment of plantations in their colonies in the East Indies.

Despite the global spread of coffee cultivation, Yemen's coffee trade continues to endure, carrying forth the legacy of centuries of tradition. Its unique Mocha coffee is still renowned worldwide, and the country's historic coffee houses and terraces are testaments to its enduring coffee culture. While it has faced numerous challenges, Yemen's coffee trade remains a symbol of resilience and a significant part of the country's cultural heritage.

Yemeni Coffee: The Mocha Bean:
Yemen is synonymous with Mocha coffee, but the term 'Mocha' does not refer to a type of coffee bean, rather it signifies the historic port city from which these beans were first shipped. The coffee from Yemen, often referred to as Mocha coffee, is derived primarily from the Arabica species, specifically the sub-varieties of Typica and Bourbon.

Yemeni coffee is grown in the country's high-altitude terraces, in the shadow of the country's towering mountain ranges. These conditions, along with the country's arid climate, create a unique terroir that significantly influences the taste of the beans.

Yemeni Mocha coffee is renowned for its distinctive flavor profile. It's a complex and intriguing brew, marked by wine-like acidity and a bold body. These beans often exhibit spicy or chocolatey notes, hence the association of the term 'Mocha' with chocolate-flavored coffee. In fact, when Yemeni coffee was first introduced to Europe, its rich, unique taste was unlike anything Europeans had ever tasted, leading them to compare it to their only other reference of a bitter and aromatic beverage – chocolate.

The Mocha beans are traditionally sun-dried, lending to their distinctive taste. Processing coffee in Yemen is a manual, time-consuming task. After the cherries are harvested, they're dried in the sun, then de-hulled using a mortar and pestle before being sorted and prepared for export.

While production levels are not as high as other coffee-growing countries, the focus in Yemen is on preserving the quality and unique characteristics of their historic beans. Despite the challenges, Yemeni coffee farmers continue to cultivate this treasured crop, ensuring the legacy of Yemeni Mocha coffee lives on.

Traditional Preparation and Consumption:
Preparing and consuming coffee in Yemen is steeped in tradition and ceremony, reflecting the country's deep respect and reverence for this historic beverage. At the heart of the Yemeni coffee tradition is the intricate process of brewing, which is seen as an art form passed down through generations.

Traditionally, Yemeni coffee is made from coffee husks, not beans, in a drink known as Qishr (also spelled as kisher or gisher). The husks are the dried outer shells of coffee cherries. These husks are lightly roasted and then ground into a coarse texture. Spices, such as cardamom and ginger, are often added during the roasting process, giving the brew a distinctive, spicy aroma and flavor.

The preparation of Qishr involves boiling the ground husks and spices in water, much like making tea. The mixture is typically boiled three times - a practice rooted in Bedouin tradition symbolizing the stages of life: birth, life, and death. Each boiling results in a different taste, with the final brew having the strongest flavor.

Drinking coffee in Yemen is a social activity often accompanied by lively conversation, a sign of hospitality, and respect. In the morning, it is consumed to awaken the senses, while in the afternoon and evenings, it is enjoyed in social gatherings as a tool for relaxation and reflection.

As we take a sip of Yemen's Qishr, we taste not just the unique flavors that the Yemeni land imparts to its coffee, but also the rich history and tradition that comes with every brew. The methodical process of preparing Qishr, the communal experience of consuming it, all echo the country's longstanding relationship with coffee.

Coffee and Yemeni Society:
The role of coffee in Yemeni society is profound, and its influence extends far beyond the simple act of consumption. Coffee holds a revered place in Yemen, often serving as a social and cultural unifier. Yemenis have cherished coffee for centuries, using it as a medium to foster community, hospitality, and dialogue.

In Yemen, coffee houses, or qahwa, have historically been important social institutions where people congregate not only to drink coffee but also to discuss matters of communal importance, exchange news, and engage in intellectual and cultural pursuits. For centuries, these coffee houses have served as the heartbeat of Yemeni cities, hosting poets, scholars, and commoners alike.

Additionally, in a country where strict social norms often dictate interactions between genders, the coffee brewing process in traditional Yemeni households is usually a task given to women, making it an important cultural role. The preparation and serving of coffee during social gatherings or family events underscore the important role women play in Yemeni society, all the while celebrating the country's coffee culture.

Moreover, coffee cultivation plays a significant role in the Yemeni economy and its people's livelihoods. Despite the numerous challenges faced by Yemeni farmers, such as water scarcity, a changing climate, and ongoing conflict, they continue to grow coffee, showing resilience and dedication. This commitment reflects the integral role of coffee in Yemeni society, both in terms of its socio-economic significance and its cultural value.

Thus, in Yemen, coffee is not just a beverage; it's an essential part of the social fabric that knits communities together, a tradition passed down through generations, and a lifeline for many Yemeni households. It is an enduring symbol of Yemen's resilience and cultural richness.

Challenges and Future of Yemeni Coffee Trade:

Yemen's coffee industry faces a multitude of challenges, from both environmental and socio-political aspects. This has led to a sharp decline in coffee production, threatening the livelihood of farmers and the future of the nation's historic coffee trade.

One significant hurdle is the water scarcity in the region. Yemen has one of the lowest levels of water availability per capita in the world, which poses a severe challenge for coffee cultivation, a crop heavily dependent on water. This issue is exacerbated by the effects of climate change, which is predicted to further decrease rainfall and increase temperatures in the region.

The socio-political situation presents an even greater challenge. Yemen has been grappling with an ongoing civil conflict since 2014, which has devastated the country's economy and infrastructure, making coffee cultivation and trade an arduous task. Farms have been destroyed, roads blockaded, and markets disrupted, preventing farmers from growing and selling their crops. Many farmers have switched to cultivating the more profitable, but water-intensive and less globally accepted crop of qat, further straining the water resources and affecting the coffee industry.

However, the future of Yemeni coffee isn't entirely bleak. There is growing international interest in Yemeni coffee, with coffee connoisseurs around the world appreciating the unique flavor profiles of Yemeni beans. This has spurred a wave of initiatives aimed at revitalizing the Yemeni coffee trade. Several organizations are working with Yemeni farmers to improve farming practices, increase yields, and ensure a fair price for their produce.

One notable initiative is the "Saveur du Yemen" project, which aims to support Yemeni farmers by providing training, access to resources, and pathways to international markets. Other initiatives focus on sustainable farming practices and reforestation, attempting to combat the environmental challenges faced by the Yemeni coffee industry.

These endeavors represent hope for Yemen's coffee industry. With the right support, Yemeni coffee, which once dominated the world, could make a significant comeback, providing a much-needed boost to the country's economy and preserving a cherished aspect of its cultural heritage. However, substantial efforts and global cooperation will be necessary to overcome the immense challenges that lay ahead.

Conclusion
Yemen's coffee, with its rich history and distinctive flavor profiles, is truly a testament to the country's resilience and dedication. Despite the numerous challenges - water scarcity, climate change, socio-political unrest - Yemen's coffee industry continues to persist, buoyed by the global appreciation of its unique beans and the efforts of several initiatives aiming to support and revitalise this ancient trade. It is a stark reminder of how intertwined coffee is with a society's fabric, its economy, and its heritage.

In the next episode of our series, we will travel to the other side of the globe and dive into a very different coffee culture. As we leave the arid terrains of Yemen, we'll find ourselves amidst the hustle and bustle of the United States. We'll explore how specialty coffee culture has taken root in the land of opportunities, and how it has shaped and been shaped by American society, economy, and lifestyle. From artisanal coffee shops in Seattle to innovative home brewing techniques in New York, join us in our next episode, "USA: The Specialty Coffee Revolution". Stay tuned!