Austria: Viennese Coffee House Culture. Episode 15

Welcome to the heart of Europe, where the Danube River weaves its way through steep vineyards and baroque cityscapes. In today's episode, we're venturing into the grand old city of Vienna, Austria's capital, world-renowned for its vibrant arts scene, imperial sites, and above all, its unique coffee culture.

Coffee in Austria, especially in Vienna, is not merely a drink. It's a lifestyle, a symbol of sophistication, and a tradition embedded in the Viennese lifestyle. The iconic coffee houses are seen as public living rooms, where people gather to read, discuss, and of course, savor the pleasure of a good cup of coffee.

This episode will take you on a journey through the quaint cobbled streets of Vienna, filled with the aroma of freshly brewed coffee and baked pastries. We'll explore the fascinating history of coffee in Austria, the unique atmosphere of traditional Viennese coffee houses, and the cherished tradition of Kaffee und Kuchen, coffee enjoyed with cake or pastries. So, get cozy as we delve into the world of Viennese coffee culture, a UNESCO intangible cultural heritage that has inspired artists, musicians, and thinkers for centuries. Let's dive in!

History of Coffee in Austria:
Vienna's love affair with coffee began in 1683, following the Battle of Vienna during the Ottoman–Habsburg wars. According to popular legend, when the Turks retreated, they left behind sacks of green beans. These were initially mistaken for camel feed until a Polish military officer, Jerzy Franciszek Kulczycki, recognized them as coffee beans. He then opened Vienna's first coffee house, using the beans left by the defeated Ottoman Turks. However, the records show that the first licensed coffee house didn't open until 1685 by an Armenian merchant named Johannes Diodato.

The initial reception to coffee in Vienna was lukewarm, but by the mid-18th century, the city had embraced coffee as part of their daily life, and coffee houses became a central part of Vienna's social fabric. These coffee houses were not just places to drink coffee, but they also became hubs of intellectual conversation, music, and literature.

Throughout the 19th century, the Viennese coffee house culture flourished, becoming an integral part of the city’s identity. The introduction of new brewing methods and a variety of coffee drinks, each served with a glass of water, added to the popularity and sophistication of the Viennese coffee experience.

The 20th century brought challenges to the Viennese coffee house culture with two World Wars and changing social norms, but they persisted. In 2011, UNESCO included the Viennese coffee house culture in the National Inventory of Intangible Cultural Heritage, acknowledging its unique combination of tradition, hospitality, and intellectual exchange. Today, Vienna's coffee house culture remains a living tradition that locals cherish and visitors admire.

Viennese Coffee Houses:
The Viennese coffee houses, or Wiener Kaffeehäuser, are more than just places to enjoy a cup of coffee. They are institutions of social interaction, intellectual discourse, and cultural creativity. The coffee house culture in Vienna is unique, and it has been recognized by UNESCO for its cultural significance.

These coffee houses range from the grand and opulent, with their chandeliers, marble tables, and red velvet seating, to the more modest and modern. Yet, they all share an atmosphere that is both relaxed and stimulating. Patrons are encouraged to linger, enjoying their coffee while reading, writing, debating, or simply watching the world go by.

Viennese coffee houses are also renowned for their outstanding service. Traditionally, a coffee order is served on a small silver tray accompanied by a glass of water, and the coffee is often enjoyed alongside a newspaper held by a wooden frame.

These establishments offer a wide array of coffee styles, typically served with a slice of cake or a pastry. Among the most famous coffee houses in Vienna are Café Central, Café Sacher, Café Landtmann, and Café Demel. Each has its own history and character, but they all continue to uphold the tradition of Viennese coffee house culture.

These coffee houses were also the meeting places for many artists, writers, and intellectuals throughout history. Figures like Sigmund Freud, Leon Trotsky, and Gustav Klimt were known to frequent these venues. Thus, Viennese coffee houses also played a crucial role as incubators for intellectual thought and creativity.

Today, these coffee houses remain central to the city's social and cultural life. They encapsulate the essence of Vienna - a city that respects its past, values intellectual dialogue, appreciates the fine arts, and, of course, loves its coffee.

Kaffee und Kuchen Tradition:
The tradition of Kaffee und Kuchen, which translates to 'coffee and cake', is deeply rooted in the Austrian culture, and particularly prominent in Vienna. This afternoon ritual is similar to the British custom of 'afternoon tea'.

It typically takes place between lunch and dinner, usually around 3-4 PM. This is the time when Austrians take a break from their daily activities to meet with friends or family at home, or more popularly, in one of the charming coffee houses.

The coffee served is typically a Melange, which is similar to a cappuccino, but other coffee varieties like a Kleiner Schwarzer (espresso) or a Verlängerter (an espresso diluted with hot water) are also common choices.

But the true star of Kaffee und Kuchen is the cake. The Viennese are famous for their rich, delectable pastries and cakes. The selection is vast and includes a variety of traditional Austrian cakes like Sachertorte (a dense chocolate cake with a thin layer of apricot jam), Apfelstrudel (apple strudel), and Linzer Torte (a tart with a lattice design on top of the pastry filled with red currant preserve).

The Kaffee und Kuchen tradition is not just about enjoying coffee and cake. It's a social event, a time for conversation and relaxation. It's an embodiment of the Gemütlichkeit, a word that conveys a sense of warmth, coziness, and good cheer, which is central to the Austrian lifestyle. This tradition encapsulates the leisurely pace and the appreciation for life's small pleasures that characterise the Viennese way of life.

Types of Coffee in Vienna:
Vienna's coffee culture is renowned worldwide, and their coffee menu is a testament to the diversity and richness of this tradition. Here are some of the most popular types of coffee you'll find in a traditional Viennese coffee house:

1. Wiener Melange: Perhaps the most popular choice, the Wiener Melange is similar to a cappuccino but with more steamed milk and foam.

2. Kleiner Schwarzer / Großer Schwarzer: Directly translating to "small black" and "large black," these are essentially single or double espressos.

3. Verlängerter: A "lengthened" coffee, this is an espresso diluted with hot water, making it somewhat akin to an Americano.

4. Einspänner: A strong, black coffee typically served in a tall glass with a dollop of whipped cream on top. It's named after the one-horse carriages where it was commonly consumed.

5. Kapuziner: This is an espresso with a dash of whipped cream, topped with a sprinkle of cayenne pepper.

6. Fiaker: Named after Vienna's horse-drawn carriages, this is a strong black coffee served with a shot of Austrian rum and topped with whipped cream.

7. Mazagran: A cold, sweetened coffee drink made with rum and served in a glass with a straw.

8. Biedermeier Kaffee: This coffee is a sweet treat served with an alcoholic shot, usually apricot brandy, on the side.

These diverse coffee types reflect Vienna's storied coffee history and its citizens' love for the beverage. Whether you prefer your coffee black, with cream, sweet, or even with a touch of alcohol, Vienna's coffee houses have something to offer every coffee lover.

Modern Coffee Scene:
The modern coffee scene in Vienna continues to honor the age-old traditions while also embracing the new wave of coffee culture. Here's a look at how Vienna's coffee culture is evolving:

1. Specialty Coffee Shops: Over the past few years, specialty coffee shops have sprung up all over Vienna, bringing a focus on single-origin, sustainably-sourced beans, and artisanal brewing methods. These new cafes cater to a younger audience while retaining the charm and sophistication synonymous with Viennese coffee culture.

2. Barista Training and Coffee Education: As the interest in coffee grows, so does the desire to understand it better. Several coffee shops and institutions in Vienna now offer barista training and coffee tasting workshops, further enriching the coffee scene.

3. Innovation and Experimentation: Despite its strong coffee traditions, Vienna is not afraid to experiment. Whether it's cold brew, nitro coffee, or innovative new brew methods, the city's coffee shops continue to innovate, making Vienna a fascinating blend of old and new.

4. Coffee Festivals: Events like the Vienna Coffee Festival highlight the city's vibrant coffee scene. These festivals serve as a platform for local and international roasters, baristas, and coffee lovers to share their passion, knowledge, and innovations.

5. Sustainability: Viennese coffee shops and roasters are also joining the global trend towards more sustainable coffee, focusing on organic beans, fair trade, direct trade, and recycling efforts.

The modern coffee scene in Vienna marries its grand coffee house traditions with contemporary trends, ensuring the city remains a significant player in the global coffee community.

Coffee and Austrian Society:
Coffee plays an integral role in Austrian society and particularly in social life in Vienna. It is deeply ingrained in the daily rhythm and cultural fabric of the city. Here's how coffee and its culture influence Austrian society:

1. Socializing and Networking: Coffee houses in Austria, particularly in Vienna, have always been places where people gather, not just to enjoy coffee, but to meet friends, discuss ideas, read, write, and even conduct business. They are also a place for people from all walks of life to mingle and interact.

2. Intellectual Hub: Historically, Viennese coffee houses have been the meeting place of artists, intellectuals, and politicians. Many significant literary, political, and philosophical discussions have taken place over a cup of coffee. This tradition continues today with many coffee houses hosting events, readings, and discussions.

3. Relaxation and Leisure: Coffee time in Austria is not rushed. It is a time to relax, enjoy the atmosphere, and perhaps indulge in a piece of cake or a newspaper. The tradition of leisurely enjoying one's coffee continues to be an essential part of the day for many Austrians.

4. Tradition and Heritage: Coffee houses are an integral part of Vienna's cultural heritage. In 2011, the Viennese coffee house culture was added to UNESCO's list of intangible cultural heritage. The traditional coffee houses are treasured as places where time and space are consumed, but only the coffee is found on the bill.

5. Democratization of Luxury: Coffee in Austria, and especially in Vienna, represents a democratization of luxury. Everyone, regardless of their social status, can enjoy a cup of coffee in the grand atmosphere of a Viennese coffee house. It's an affordable way to indulge in a bit of everyday luxury.

In short, coffee in Austria is more than just a beverage; it's a lifestyle. It shapes social interactions, intellectual discourse, and even the pace of life.

Conclusion and Teaser for Next Episode:
From the grandeur of Viennese coffee houses to the delightful tradition of Kaffee und Kuchen, Austria’s coffee culture is truly unique. It's a culture that values not just the taste of coffee but the experience and ambiance of enjoying it. It's a reminder that sometimes, it's worth it to slow down, take a break, and savor a moment – over a cup of coffee, of course.

As we wrap up our exploration of Austria's coffee culture, we look forward to our next destination - Kenya